What on earth possessed me to think this was a good idea? 36 hours on a train to reach one the most northerly cities in Kazakhstan ….. just because I can. And that pretty much sums up how I come to be sitting on my bench seat, looking out the window at the endless tundra that is rarely the same and yet which remains desolate, wintery, white with frost & snow and punctuated by isolated homesteads and villages, occasional vehicles and farm animals, even fewer humans and with every evidence that life here is tough and cold. Seeing herds of camels is still a novelty much to amusement of my fellow passengers who grin when I try and take photos – usually too blurred to be anything but an aide memoire.

There are what look like very tall fences spaced along the route but methinks they are to slow/stop the build up of snow rather than keep any animals in or people out. The low story tree growth is leaf-less and dry and what grasses are not covered by the light frosting of snow, are yellow and brown. It is almost a sepia landscape with only the rare coloured roof in a settlement to brighten the view with a blue or orange covering or matching fence. The dawn was on palest rainbow colours, lighting the setting moon on a clear sky but this has lapsed into a grey day with little hint or warmth or life under the low cloud.

My journey has been pretty easy with the cabin (four bunks) to myself for all but a couple of hours yesterday. The carriage guards have been attentive and kind, the toilet is only mildly offensive and my food supplies have been adequate. Random women have been boarding the train at intermittent stops to sell, knitted goods, dried fish, alcohol and other delights but even if I wanted to buy such things (and the fish were particularly ripe), I have not one Kazakhstani Tenge. Changing countries in the middle of the night and then not stopping anywhere long enough to leave the train with confidence has meant I am tenge-less so I guess I know what my first job will be in Aqtobe.